North Korea: March 1995
"Please bow to the Great Leader"

Suffer the Little Children

Contd. from War Museum

Kids in North Korea are exceedingly polite. They greet foreigners (and each other) with a comical vertical-arm salute and a ringing "Aniyong Hasimnika!". Sometimes they simply give you a deep bow. Apparently they have been instructed to treat foreigners with extreme deference, maybe to boost tourist revenue.

Today we were visiting the School Children's Palace in Pyongyang, where talented children could participate in after-school activities. I found this idea of voluntary participation a bit out of step with what I'd seen so far, and separate questioning of the guides failed to reveal whether this institution was for all kids or not, and whether attendance was optional. The Palace was certainly magnificently maintained and well equipped, with an impressive theatre and a large indoor swimming pool. The 10-metre dive tower even had a glass elevator.

We were taken for a brief visit to a classroom where we saw children playing accordions, for goodness' sake. They all smiled and looked happy, but the suffering that room must have seen is unimaginable. We were then rushed on to the theatre, where our entrance was greeted with a thunderous applause by the school-age audience. They do this just to impress foreigners, I'm sure, and it certainly worked! The show cute, but I was suddenly reminded of the performing animals at the Circus and wondered how long it had taken to etch the frozen smiles onto these young faces. We saw 5-year-olds playing violin, and other obvious examples of child abuse.

Epilogue - Land of the Rising Son

Things are moving fast in North Korea. At the time of writing (June '95), it was reported that Kim Jong Il has finally been promoted to 'Great Leader' status, that NK is accepting food aid from the South, and that the 1953 armistice is being rescinded (the two countries are still technically at war).

North Korea was easily one of the most interesting trips we have ever made. We can recommend it to anyone, as our guides earnestly hoped we would (we told them we would be posting a travelogue on the 'net). There seems to be little of the apathy of the Eastern European regimes that turned those countries into garbage heaps even before they collapsed. The streets really are spotless in Pyongyang (okay, you'll find the occasional scrap of paper) and the guides are friendly, extremely helpful and informative - we could, and did, ask them anything.

North Korea is in big economical trouble, as the recent acceptance of aid from South Korea and Japan surely demonstrates (not that they deny that they are a "developing" country). Russia is no longer interested in supporting Communist regimes and China doesn't seem to be too generous lately either. Like the Soviet Union and East Germany, if this country collapses then it will simply cease to exist. You'd better hurry if you want to experience this fascinating historical oddity before it disappears forever.

comments are welcome - especially from Koreans!

cheers,
Paul & Rick Bakker
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Copyright 1995 - Paul Bakker


Paul Bakker / "P. Bakker ITS/14 " p.bakker@all-in-1.its14.shlgbpge.simis.com
The opinions expressed above are my own, not my employer's.